Italian Culinary Adventure ~ Day Two And Three - Venice

Venice - Day Two
Sunday, June 23nd. 2002

We left Milan for Venice quite early, and in no time at all it seemed we had arrived. We stopped just once at an Autogrill (Italian roadside bar/restaurant), and had a very good cappucino, and a prosciutto sandwich for breakfast. Although we were very worried about having to endure a long wait at the parking garage at Piazza Roma, we found there was no line up at all, and we drove right in. We took a water bus to Piazza San Marco, which is a short walk from our hotel in Venice, Hotel Flora. The hotel was just as we had remembered it, very quaint with a lush, green courtyard, where they serve a nice continental breakfast each morning. The rooms vary greatly at this hotel, and since I made my reservation late, although I was lucky enough to get a room, it was a very small one. Since we are rarely in our room anyway, I wasn't too unhappy, and the location more than makes up for any shortcomings. All the rooms are decorated with antique furnishings, and some are much nicer than others.

Once we were checked in and unpacked, we went out in search of a wine bar, or bacari for lunch. We decided to try Osteria alla Botte, which ended up being an excellent choice. It is in the area of the Rialto bridge, and after walking around a bit, we finally located it. We were told that this was a place frequented more by locals, than tourists, which was exactly what we found. Although one can stand up at the bar for a glass of wine and a nibble of traditional appetizers, there is seating for about 20 in the back. We ordered a half a bottle of the local white wine, a platter of their seafood appetizers, a mix of vegetable appetizers, a green mixed salad, and a caprese salad to share. The seafood appetizer selection was extremely tasty, and combined many of the local specialties. There were grilled shrimps and squid, baby octopus, Baccala Montecato (whipped salted cod), Sarde in Soar (sardines in a sweet and sour sauce), and something I had never tried before called Baccala Vicentina. The grilled selection was very sweet and tender, the Montecato was whipped to such a creamy consistancy that it melted in your mouth, and even the sardines, which I usually don't care for were very tasty. We asked about the Vicentina as it was very flavorful, and were told that it was simply made by cooking rehydrated salted cod slowly in the oven with milk, capers and onions. I will certainly try my hand at making this dish some time soon! Click on photo for larger view!

The platter of vegetables was a nice selection, although the roasted tomatoes were the best. The green salad was fresh and crisp, and the Insalata Caprese was a mix of flavorful just ripe tomatoes, and creamy, melt in your mouth buffalo mozzarella. The house wine at 4 Euros was fruity and light, and we were surprised that our total bill only came to 39 Euros. Satiated, and relaxed, we made our way back out into the heat to explore the city.

We walked around for an hour or two to work off our lunch, but the intense heat finally got the better of us, and we went back to our hotel where we took refuge on the patio in the shade with an icy bottle of water. Once we cooled down, we took one more stroll around St. Mark's cathedral, and then we returned to the hotel at about 6pm to freshen up for dinner.

Before we headed over to the restaurant we had chosen, we decided to stop in at Harry's Bar for a Bellini (a drink made of white peach jiuce and prosecco). Although it was almost empty when we arrived at just after 7pm, it quickly filled up. Unfortunately, the heavy smoke (I'm allergic to cigarette smoke) forced us to make an early departure, and we headed over to Trattoria alla Madonna, our favorite venetian restaurant just after 7:30pm, which is early for Venice. The restaurant was as busy as usual, and we asked to be seated in a smoke free area. Usually this is almost impossible, but luckily there was a small room that had no smoking patrons in it.

We started our meal with a plate of sauteed artichokes, which were meltingly tender, and just as flavorful as I remembered from prior visits. For his first course, my husband chose the Spaghetti alla Sepia (with squid ink), while I had to try my old favorite, Risotto alla Frutta di Mare. (seafood risotto) The pasta with squid ink was tasty, but quite frankly I find the black color more than a little unpleasant. My risotto was really full of flavor, although there seemed to be far less seafood in it than I remembered.

For our second course, my husband chose Triglia alla Griglia (grilled red mullet), while I couldn't resist, and chose the Fritto Misto of shrimp and calamari, which was just as light and crispy as I remembered from years past. Although the Triglia was flavorful and moist, it seemed to be a little too much work to pick through all the bones for the little meat you end up with. We drank the house white wine, which was made locally. After a quick coffee to complete our meal, we strolled out to see St. Mark's at night, which remains quite crowded with tourists enjoying a coffee in one of the many bars along the piazza until very late at night. We ended up at our hotel after an hour or so, and enjoyed a digestivo, or after dinner drink out in the courtyard before calling it a night and heading off to bed, after a long day of walking in very hot temperatures. Click on photo for larger view!

Hotel Flora
San Marco, 2283/A
Tel.: 041 5205844
Fax: 041 5228217
e-mail: info@hotelflora.it
Amenities: American style showers, hotel bar, breakfast included.
Click HERE for more information!
Note: Book this hotel early, as it only has 44 rooms and is booked months in advance. Also, when booking, ask for a larger room if one is available. Some rooms are quite spacious and decorated with beautiful old antiques.

Osteria alla Botte
Calle della Bissa
S. Marco, 5482

Harry's Bar
Calle Vallaresso 1323
S. Marco 30124
Note: There is a full menu here, but quite frankly I find the prices a little too steep for the food served. It is fun to sir in the bar and order a Bellini or a negroni, and people watch. You'll see everything from royalty, to actors, and basic tourists from all over the world stopping in for a drink or dinner.

Trattoria alla Madonna
Calle della Madonna
23 S. Polo, 594
Note: This restaurant is just at the bottom of the Rialto bridge and quite easy to find, although it does not take reservations. You'll find an even mix of toursts and locals here.

Buon Appetito!
By Deborah Mele 2002
Email
Recipe Request
Newsletter Signup